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Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada, has been at the top of Timothy’s must-see list for years. We’ve talked about going for our anniversary, but read that September isn’t the best month to go since it’s a muddy in-between of the frozen beauty of winter and the melted beauty of summer.
I was browsing google flights, trying out different destinations on different days to see if there were any deals. I chanced on a seasonal Frontier flight from Vegas to Calgary for $150/person round trip… departing in two days. I turned to Timothy and asked if he wanted to go somewhere for a long weekend. He suggested a few places closer to home before I interrupted with “how about Banff?”
It took a little convincing that it was feasible on such short notice, but we had free nights on hotels.com to cover two of three nights we would be gone and 4WD car rentals were reasonable.
Two days later we were off!
WHERE TO STAY
We spent the first night in Bow View Lodge, steps away from downtown Banff. It was very reasonably priced at $54 a night, plus we got 10% back with our Capitol One Venture Rewards Card on hotels.com. It was nice for a two-star hotel, but we did have one complaint. The thermostat didn’t work! The room wasn’t freezing, considering it was 1 degree Fahrenheit outside, but we couldn’t get it toasty like I’d have liked either – if the thermostat was reading correctly it hovered around 67. I recommend this hotel if you’re looking for somewhere clean but budget friendly close to downtown Banff.
The next two nights we used our hotels.com reward nights to stay at The Juniper Hotel, about .2 miles out of downtown Banff. It was a lovely three-star hotel. They offered cookies on arrival, the thermostat worked, their complimentary body wash smelled amazing, and they featured a small hot tub outside which we went out to see but decided not to brave. It’s worth mentioning the hotel’s bistro is very popular and highly rated, however it was way out of our budget so I can’t comment on it’s quality. All in all, I recommend this hotel if you’re looking for somewhere reasonably priced but still very nice!
It’s important to note hotels are much pricier over Christmas weekend and in the summer. The significantly cheaper winter prices are a great bonus to visiting in this season!
WHERE TO EAT
Banff is a tourist hotspot, and the prices of local eateries reflect that. The bistro in The Juniper Hotel smelled delicious, but the prices were insane. To keep this a budget-friendly trip we ended up eating only two meals in true local gems, but luckily we can highly recommend both of them!
For dinner we enjoyed Eddie Burger Bar in downtown Banff. You can find their menu here:
https://www.eddieburgerbar.ca/
They had a vast variety of customizable burgers with all kinds of toppings, and we both got one and were quite happy with them. Their fries were well seasoned and their staff friendly, recommending a nice place for dinner out of town if we were staying. It is a really small place with just a few tables, and the vibes lean more bar than restaurant. They had lots of milkshakes, some 21+, though their specialty was claimed to be “The Trashcan” which we didn’t try because it featured red bull. We did try an apple cider they had on tap, by the Canadian Okanagan. Neither of us are big drinkers but this was a darn good cider. It was unique in that it had a sour green apple taste. I’m so disappointed we can’t get it in the US!
For breakfast we dipped in Skoki’s Waffles, Crepes, and Frozen yogurt. You can find their menu here:
They are a family owned business and EVERYTHING on the menu looked good. We both got bacon waffles and hot chocolate and devoured it. The bacon was cooked into the waffles, and they came with maple syrup (of course). I wanted to try so many other treats, but we were stuffed! What we did have was delicious.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
- Ice skate outdoors on Lake Louise! The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise offers skate rentals in an equipment shop to the right of the front desk at $14 for 2 hours, or you’re welcome to bring your own. There is no charge to go out on the lake! Older websites mention Chateau Mountain Sports as the spot to rent, but while the winter supply store is still there they no longer offer rentals. The lake typically opens for skating in early to mid-December and remains open as long as the hotel maintains it, which is usually through March. Skating is at your own risk, but they won’t clear the snow off the ice unless it’s a very safe thickness. (All the same, skating over cracks in the ice had my anxiety kicked into high gear.) Overall this experience was one of my favorites from the trip. It was both Timothy’s and my first time skating on a lake, and I can’t imagine a more beautiful backdrop.
- Explore The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, and if it ’tis the season enjoy the Christmas décor! There were trees and garlands throughout the beautiful hotel while we were there. The thick branded mittens in their shop make a nice souvenir, too!
- Walk the path around Lake Louise -or take a horse drawn carriage! The views are unbeatable, and we loved our stroll but had a spark of jealousy for the sleighs that jingled by as well. Sleigh rides go for $37/adult and $30/child up to 8-years-old. Sleighs depart on the hour throughout the day. Find more information here: https://www.fairmont.com/lake-louise/promotions/sleighrides/
- Take the Lake Louise Ski Resort Gondola. They have a sightseeing option to go round trip for $35.95/person. I really wanted to see the view from the top but on this trip we elected to save the $$. There are no facilities at the top so do what you gotta do before heading up! You can stay as long as you want to enjoy the view and watch the skiers taking off. Keep in mind the last ride up leaves at 3:30pm. You can purchase tickets ahead of time here: https://shop.skilouise.com/2018-19-sightseeing-lift-ticket-adult.html
- Stop to enjoy the breathtaking view of Morant’s Curve, and hope to spot a train! Several online sites suggest trains run every twenty minutes, but we waited there (freezing) for forty-five and didn’t see one. We were disappointed but couldn’t afford to spend more time waiting since we had no idea if it’d be five more minutes or an hour. Since the majority of the trains going through are cargo trains, there isn’t a schedule you can follow. The curve is named for Nicholas Morant, a photographer for Cathay Pacific Railway, whose fabulously successful photo of the curve is thought to have helped draw visitors to Banff National Park. The viewpoint is off of Bow Valley Parkway, heading away from Lake Louise village. There is not a sign marking the spot, though there is a small parking area. Once you’re on the parkway the curve is only about five minutes driving, so keep a close watch! We visited Morant’s Curve in the morning not long after sunrise and couldn’t have asked for better lighting… the snow floating off the trees looked like swirls of glitter in the air.
- Walk around downtown Banff, the perfect place to enjoy a steaming cup of hot chocolate. The town is quaint and quintessentially Canadian, if a little touristy. The mountains rising up seemingly just beyond the streets are stunning.
- See Bow Falls, just minutes from downtown Banff, frozen over! There is a parking area off Bow River Avenue. It’s a quick stop but worth seeing.
- Rent a toboggan in Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. There’s a slope behind the hotel used by locals and tourists. We didn’t get a chance to do this on our trip but think it sounds like a lot of fun to try with kiddos someday!
- Banff Upper Hot Springs can be visited for $8.30/person, and towel or even bathing suit rentals are available for $1.90/each. The entry fee includes a locker for your personal items. Located on Mountain Avenue not far south of Banff, we ALMOST skipped this and I’m so glad we didn’t. I highly recommend ending the day there. To be honest, I thought it might be miserable going in. No way in the frigid weather could this water be hot enough, right? I was wrong! At 104 degrees Fahrenheit the water felt AMAZING. It was actually hot enough that in the hour we stayed in, watching the sunset move across the snowy mountain backdrop, we sat on the edge of the pool several times to COOL OFF. I noticed a couple of people wore hats in the water but you absolutely didn’t need them. The rising steam kept the top of our heads plenty warm. We would have stayed even longer if we didn’t get so hungry and dehydrated. (We ended up picking up a pizza and relaxing in our hotel room for the rest of the night, trying to hold on to the waters heat.) At 5200ft Banff Upper Hot Springs is the highest operating in Canada. According to their website the thermal waters are pushed vertically more than 6500ft, through a big crack in the layers of rock. The hot spring facility is open Sunday-Thursday 10am-10pm and Friday-Saturday 10am-11pm, with the last admission sold 30 minutes before closing. http://www.hotsprings.ca/banff-upper-hot-springs
- Hike in Johnston Canyon to see frozen waterfalls. While the trails and catwalks are not steep, we were very thankful for the walking crampons we rented from Snowtips Ice Track Rentals in downtown Banff for $14/day (they also offer half day rentals). There are two forks in the trail. At each, it is best to head right first. These are short branch offs to fabulous views before you head back to the main trail to keep heading upwards. The views along the trail were constantly beautiful, often following the partially frozen glacier-blue river and passing by smaller frozen waterfalls on the way to the main event. The elevation gain to the upper falls is a smidge under 400 feet. It is .7 miles to the lower falls from the Johnston Canyon resort, and from there another mile to the upper falls. It is definitely worth it to go all the way up, as the view at each overlook seemed to be prettier than the next. We spent about 3 hours round trip, which included lots of stops to take in the sights. It was so cold the condensation from my breath froze my hair! It’s always a good idea to check trail conditions first, which you can do here: https://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/tcond/cond_e.asp?opark=100092
- Duck into British Columbia and Kootenay National Park. One location marks the division of two Canadian provinces, two national parks, and two watersheds. There is a sign marking the spot that makes for a nice photo op, too. If you type “The Continental Divide” into your GPS the location should come up, or try this address from Google Maps: Banff-Windermere Hwy, Improvement District No. 9, AB T0L 1E0, Canada
- Go snow tubing! This blog is geared towards people who are looking for things to do besides the obvious skiing and snowboarding opportunities in Banff. Tubing is a family friendly option that I consider a kind of in between! Once again this one was a little out of budget for our trip at $35/person, but when we go back we will definitely be trying it at Mt. Norquay Ski Resort! https://banffnorquay.com/winter/tubing/
GETTING AROUND
Since we flew into Calgary, the closest major airport, we rented a car and drove the two hours to Banff. We used Economy Car Rentals, who booked us with their affiliate, Routes. A shuttle picked us up from the airport and took us to office, only for us to find out we were at another affiliate, UDrive. They almost sent us back to the airport to wait for a Routes shuttle – which would have been an awful waste of time when we were freezing and tired – when they discovered our reservation was in fact in their system. No one could figure out why our receipt said Routes but UDrive had our information, but we got our car and that was all we wanted!
We reserved a 4WD SUV because we didn’t feel confident about the road conditions. They gave us a Jeep which we definitely enjoyed, however looking back it probably wasn’t necessary as all the roads were very well cleared while we were there. I would not hesitate at all to book a regular car next time! Driving was definitely the easiest way for us to get from Calgary to Banff, and gave us the most freedom to go where we wanted, stop where we wanted, and just drive around enjoying the views!
All in all, we had an amazing trip. The cold was insane and we couldn’t feel our faces for most of the time we were there, but on the flight home we were planning a return trip which is always a good sign! The weekend trip for two cost around $700, including flights, car rental, gas, hotels, food, and other purchases while there. I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Banff National Park in the winter to enjoy cheaper prices, fewer tourists, gorgeous snowy scenes, and the perfect traditional holiday feel.
Do you have suggestions of more things to do and see in Banff? Comment below!
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September 7, 2017
Sunrise
Timothy and I have only seen a few sunrises in our adult lives, favoring sleeping in and staying up late when at all possible. We agreed, a little regretfully, that a sunrise on a Greek island was worth getting up miserably early to witness. We woke up a little bit before the 6:54am peak and threw on a random assortment of warm clothes, as it was a touch chilly in the mornings. We scurried around our building to find a spot to watch.
Unfortunately, the sun rises to the “back” of the island. This is lucky in the evening when the sun is setting and casting a golden glow across the most densely populated side facing the calderas, but it made for a slightly less impressive rise. The colours were gorgeous, deep reds and oranges, but there were lots of powerlines and we were standing in the back of a parking lot. As it rose higher and we trudged back to our room it began to glow pink along the caldera side of the island, so we stayed up a little longer to watch the colours brightening. After that we went straight back to bed.
Sunrise from a parking lot
Sunrise turning the caldera pink
Morning
After eating our last hotel breakfast, we packed up our backpacks and left them with the front desk employee in their teeny office. We returned to our sunrise parking lot and climbed back on the quad. We had the rental until mid-afternoon and planned to take full advantage of it, heading to the south end of the island where we had not yet explored.
There was a great deal of driving the quad on this day. It is difficult to record in a blog how completely exhilarating this was. If you are a person who enjoys beautiful windy drives, you absolutely must spend a day exploring Santorini on quad. In early September the weather was perfect for it, warm to the edge of hot during the day and cool in the mornings and evenings. We primarily followed the roads on the coast of the island, and there was constant scenery of quaint villas, whitewashed churches, sparkling sea, and rugged cliffs.
Besides the many times we pulled off the road to take in the views, our first stop was the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. This bronze age settlement was both destroyed and preserved by a volcano, though luckily what has been unearthed suggests that the villagers had enough warning to evacuate before the volcano’s eruption. There was a fee to park and then a somewhat hefty entrance fee of 12 euros per person to enter. Whether or not that price is worth it depends on personal interest.
The entire excavation area is enclosed and airconditioned, so it was a nice break from the sun. It was interesting to see the work in the progress. The pathways are mostly elevated and railed, and there are signs with information about Akrotiri and what you are seeing. We enjoy exploring on our own, and after how much we paid to get in we were not interested in dishing out another 20 euros to reserve a guided tour.
In the area just outside of the ruins there was a stray puppy alternating between loving on visitors and basking in the shade. I loved loved loved this sweet puppy and wish to heaven we could have brought her home. I deeply hope someone there is taking care of her. Timothy had to drag me away to continue our explorations.
Views on the quad
Prehistoric town of Akrotiri
Sweet puppy outside the Akrotiri excavation building
Afternoon
From the prehistoric town we headed all the way to the end of the island to Cape Akrotiri. Just before we reached the parking area – a generous term for the side of the road – we passed a rope swing hanging from a tree on the side of the road. As we left I watched for it, as it was right on a curve, and had Timothy pull over. It looked out over the sea and we had a very sweet moment swinging.
Cape Akrotiri is marked by a lighthouse. Essentially the road ends at the end of the island and you abruptly come upon cars and quads parked along both sides of the street. We had to walk in a bit from where we parked, but there is a defined dirt path. As we got close to the lighthouse we had to climb over and amongst rocks. We could see far past the caldera from this point, out to sea. The water was rich blue. We enjoyed climbing amongst the rocks, seeing every angle of the peninsula. Of course it’s always nice to collect another lighthouse to remember.
On our way back towards Firostefani we passed the turn off for Red Beach, which we had already seen from our catamaran tour, and continued on to Pyrgos. Pyrgos is a village I saw mentioned online as offering the highest point on Santorini. Timothy checked out the road map and we set off for that highest point, hoping for another pleasant view. We drove through the town center and continued, heading slowly up. Eventually we were able to recognize the point to which we were heading. Soon after that we found ourselves on a long and frighteningly narrow road with tight switchbacks taking us up. Fortunately it was not a high traffic area. We only passed a few people going up or down. It was probably the least touristy place we went on Santorini, which is amazing considering the view we found at the top.
We pulled off on the side of the road and walked to the edge, where a panoramic view of the island met us. We could see all the way to Oia. It was absolutely stunning, and our trip would not have been complete without this view and this understanding of the beauty and smallness of the island we spent three days on. Heading up to this point is an absolute must.
We were now running short on time before we needed to return the quad, but we quickly took the road over to Kamari Beach. Kamari is one of several black beaches on the island. It is north of Perivolos and Perissa, both part of a stretch of well-known black sand beach. The parking situation there was very confusing. We started to park in an open spot in a long line of cars across from some shops, but a group of locals sitting on one of the shop porches yelled at us saying we could not park there without a permit. Frustrated, we drove around for a bit looking for a place that indicated we could park, but we did not find anything. The roads were very tight and difficult to maneuver. We ended up parking farther down in the line of cars we initially tried to park in. We were a little worried about getting towed or booted or otherwise in trouble, but we weren’t staying. We just wanted to quickly see the black beach. (We never saw any actual signage that indicated we couldn’t park there.)
We were very close to the beach and walked down between a row of grass-topped umbrellas. It would have been a lovely spot if it wasn’t for the crowds. The chairs were full of people, and there were a surprising number in the water considering how cold the sea was. The beach itself was made of little black pebbles, and it was skirted with a cliff to the south. We are glad we saw it but would never want to spend time there while so crowded.
Finally, we had to book it back to Firostefani to return the quad. There were no issues, and we walked into Fira to get our last chicken-on-a-sticks from the little market restaurant we had stopped at several times. Unfortunately I don’t remember the name of it, but it’s on the left just as you enter Fira. The sticks were very cheap, 1,50 euro per stick, tasty and filling. We had arranged that morning, with the help of the hotel front desk, for a taxi to take us to the airport. We went to pick up our backpacks and there was no one in the tiny office. It was time to go, so before we panicked I opened a door within the office and found a cramped bathroom in which our bags had been stored. We took them, hoping the staff wouldn’t worry where they’d gone, and left to meet our taxi. We arrived at the Santorini airport with plenty of time before our night flight to Athens.
Rope swing just before Cape Akrotiri
Cape Akrotiri lighthouse and views
On the way up to the highest point of Santorini
Kamari Beach
Sitting in the cafe type restaurant waiting for our chicken-on-a-stick
Follow for blog updates – a day in Athens is next!
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When I was young I never heard about International Women’s Day, even though it’s been around since the early 1900’s. Today, my social media is overrun with the message. Growing advocacy for women’s rights and recognition, as well as the increased availability of online social platforms, has skyrocketed our ability to have this conversation and celebrate this day globally.
What is International Women’s Day? According to the official campaign website, March 8th is “a global day celebrating the social, economic, cultural and political achievements of women.” It is not hosted by any one institution but is supported by countless.
Who is celebrating International Women’s Day? Literally anybody who appreciates and respects what females contribute to humankind. The day is, first and foremost, a celebration. A party! An awards ceremony! It’s saying, “You can do it!” and, “You did it!”. You do not have to be a feminist to recognize the incredible impact of women.
What is feminism? According to Merriam Webster dictionary, feminism is “the theory of the political, economic, and social equality of the sexes”.
In highschool I would have been quick to describe myself as a feminist. As it became a buzzword, however, I became afraid to associate it with my name. I saw peoples’ reactions to the word become increasingly negative, escalating from eye rolls, to scorn, to outright verbal attacks. Whole communities seem to associate feminism with cult-like man haters, and I didn’t want to be a part of that.
As the #metoo and #timesup movements have exploded, I re-evaluated my disassociation from the word. The actual definition and negative perceptions weren’t matching up, and I finally decided to screw the negativity and support something I believe in under the name it carries.
Feminism is NOT about hating men. Feminism is NOT about thinking women are better than men. Feminists are not trying to reverse the roles. Feminism is about EQUALITY.
Finally… yes, men can be feminists too! In fact, any man who supports gender equality IS a feminist whether he calls himself one or not. The term is feminine, but the scope is universal. It DOES apply to men, and it DOES effect men. There is not a person on this earth whom has not been treated differently or met with skewed expectations because of their gender. Feminists want to even the field for everybody.
#proudfeminist
Some personal role models that I respect and find inspiration from are celebrated below!
Emma Watson
Child actor turned UN Women Goodwill Ambassador. Emma studied English literature at Brown University, which is a subject especially close to my heart. She is an educated woman with a classy sense of style who throws herself into supporting the causes she cares about. She is the kind of woman I hope my someday-daughters will look up to. (If you haven’t already, look up her speeches. They’re incredible.)
Jane Austen
Not only does she write brilliantly, but she brings to life female characters with wit and personality in an era when they could not even inherit property. Jane herself had a difficult life, yet all her stories have happy endings. She was a courageous woman who found her voice in stories. She will always be one of my favorite authors.
Michelle Obama
She had standards to meet as the First Lady of the United States, but her campaigns stretch far beyond standards. She advocates passionately and with genuine care for a myriad of causes from nutrition to poverty awareness. Another woman with a classy fashion sense, she has become a role model for women around the world.
And soooo many more! History is rife with incredible, intelligent, beautiful women who have stepped up to fight for equality or in other ways contribute to society.
Men – like I said, feminism is about equality. Don’t fret, we will celebrate International Men’s Day on November 19th!
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September 6, 2017
Morning and Boarding
Neither of us are morning people (at all) and neither of us like coffee (unfortunately), so we were a little bummed that the cruise shuttle picked us up a solid twenty minutes late. That was twenty minutes we could have slept! However, we didn’t have a lot of room to complain because we had read reviews that let us know it was often late prior to booking and ignored them.
Most of the cruises sail for five hours, and most companies offer two sailings each day. We had several mutually indecisive discussions about whether to book a morning cruise or an afternoon cruise. If we booked in the afternoon we wouldn’t have to get up early, plus we would get to see the sunset from the catamaran. However, that would probably mean that the cruise would be the only sightseeing we accomplished that day. On the other hand, if we booked the morning cruise we would be forced to get an earlier start on the day and have the whole afternoon and evening to explore Oia, whence the cruises depart.
We chose to go with the morning cruise because we wanted to get the full experience of sunset in Oia, the most famous sunset location in Santorini and a contender for sunset fame around the world. We booked our cruise with Sunset Oia, one of many similar options, because reviews indicated less people per catamaran.
The shuttle was a 15-passenger van, and we were one of the first groups to board. By the time we reached the port in Oia the van was full. The port (a generous word in this case) is at the base of Oia at the bottom of a long, curving hill. At the top of the incline our van swung around and proceeded to back down the extremely narrow road at a high speed. It was terrifying, and I think we were all relieved to disembark. A port employee met us at the van and showed us through the mass of people to a semi-recognizable line to check in. There were some nasty looks passed around due to perceived and actual cutting, encouraged by the line being so disorganized. When we finally got to the little desk set up a lady checked us in and gave us large round stickers to put on our shirts. The colour of the stickers indicated which catamaran you were, eventually, to board. I was disappointed to see that our stickers showed we were on one of the larger boats, which would mean more people.
After several other catamarans had filled they called for dark blue stickers, and we removed our shoes to walk across the metal plank. There was a rope “railing” you could hold to steady yourself. I was unduly pleased that we were on a white boat instead of a gaudy red one. There was an initial meeting on the bottom deck with all the tourists and the three crew members (excluding the captain). A lively tanned woman with an accent explained general safety information, pointed out the restrooms, and showed everyone where the wine and soda were (included in the price of your ticket). She then told us we could go back up to the main deck or climb the spiral stairs to an upper deck where the captain was.
Sailing
Initially we went up to the top level, joined by one other couple. They were celebrating their anniversary and we enjoyed talking to them about our travels. It was fun to watch the captain for the bit, and the seating was comfortable. As it was higher up there was increased wind and as it was covered there was no shade. We soon decided to go down to the main deck, but since we were now late comers we ended up sitting on the netting. This was all well and good except that every now and then the ocean would splash up through the netting, and I mean UP, and completely douse us. The water was freezing and the breeze unforgiving. The boat provided us with one towel each, which were both soaked after the first wave, so we were chill. Later on we were able to move to a padded area and lay out, which was a warm relief and lovely. The sun balanced out the wind when you weren’t wet.
Our first stop was the hot springs, which did not live up to the name. I took the advice of bloggers before me and made sure I did not wear my white swimsuit, as the thick sulfur will yellow it. Our catamaran stopped in a semi-circle alongside four others, and most everybody jumped off and swam for the hot springs. The hot springs would be more aptly called the “slight-less-freezing-than-the-rest-of-the-ocean springs”. We stayed for a while, moving around looking for patches of warmth and taking in the cliffs before we swam back. I decided that was about enough water for me.
Our other stops included mid-ocean snorkeling, which was only minorly impressive. We skirted close to Red Beach and White Beach, and it was interesting to see them from the ocean’s perspective. Boats are not allowed to dock too close, but if you were dedicated you could possibly swim ashore from where we anchored. With just 30 minutes per stop it would be risky.
At lunchtime the crew put together a delicious, home-style Greek lunch on the lower deck. It included skewered chicken and pork BBQ, white bread, Greek salad, vegetables, and a gooey vegetarian mixture completely unrecognizable to me.
View from the top deck, on the back of the boat
The left wall of the hot springs – notice the structure on the cliff
The tiny church surrounded by the hot springs… this location is inaccessible by land
White Beach
Snorkeling in the Aegean Sea
Other catamarans anchored off one of the beaches
Disembarking
It truly was a fine afternoon and we both appreciated seeing the entire inside curve of the island from sea. Being on the catamaran so long forced us to slow our pace and enjoy the sunshine and breeze. However, we found that the Sunset Oia website had neglected to make clear that while it departed from Oia it actually returned to Vlychada Marina, on the complete opposite end of the island.
We had considered making wine tour reservations in Oia after the cruise, and it was a great relief we hadn’t when we realized it was going to take us a while to get back there. After everyone disembarked we were directed to stand in our group so drivers could fetch us. A driver came and called out the last names and hotels of all but 6 of us. A few minutes later another drive came and called out the names and hotels of the other two couples. I was surprised and uneasy to be the lone couple out. We stood for a long while before Timothy ran back along the long dock to ask the crew members if there were any other instructions. I was stressing out by the second that the driver would come while he was gone, but I was also stressing as time slipped past with us stranded in a secluded, ugly marina on our honeymoon.
After a great deal of waiting and running and talking to different people it was discovered the first driver was supposed to have taken us. We waited just over an hour, with concerningly unclear communication about what was happening, before the driver came back and got us. We felt terrible when we realized he had brought everyone on the bus back with him! I have no idea how he didn’t manage to drop anyone off in that time. Trying to clear things up he showed us the list, and sure enough our name was on it – it was the only one not circled. I’m still not sure what happened. We were the second to last couple to be deposited back at their hotel, and we calmed our nerves with a quick dip in the spa.
Quad from Firostefani to Oia
While I changed Timothy walked to the quad rental company our hotel had recommended, which was very close. We did a 24-hour rental of a two-person quad for 36 euro – and considering how much fun we had, it was a steal.
I read a blog before we left written by a woman who felt very strongly that quads should not be rented because they are annoying to locals. I wholeheartedly contest that, for several reasons. Santorini’s industry is tourism. The quad rentals are huge on the island, as attested by the abounding locations offering this service. Additionally, the roads on Santorini are extraordinarily narrow. It is a small, crowded island. There are many, many more quads than cars, and that goes for both rentals and local drivers. Unless you’re a fearless shuttle driver, a car would be a pain to maneuver and in some cases dangerous.
I was wearing a two-piece dress with a maxi skirt for our jaunt to Oia. Luckily the skirt had a fairly high split, so I didn’t have trouble sitting on the quad behind Timothy. I don’t believe in being overdressed, and if I have an opportunity to wear something gorgeous from lulus.com I’m going to do it! Timothy thought we should wear the included helmets, but I wanted to feel the wind in my hair so they went in the bin on the back. (Sorry mom!)
The drive to Oia was breathtaking. We saw much of their second largest industry, vineyards, and more churches. I swear there is a church every few steps on Santorini. I loved the curves of the road. I loved that the speed limit was 50 kilometers/hour, and I loved that nobody paid any attention to it. It was almost a shame to arrive.
Undeterred by my maxi skirt
Agriculture is the second largest industry on Santorini, after tourism
Unique terrain abounded
Oia
There was easy parking right outside Oia, and we walked in through a concrete alley that proved to be the first of many. We were greeted by a stray cat, which also turned out to be the first of many. I adore every creature with fur and I won’t pretend I didn’t love every second making friends and petting the cats of Santorini, but realistically they represent something very sad. Winters are harsh not only because of cold but because many establishments that operate to accommodate tourists close for the season, and if there were kind souls setting out food for a stray they disappear. There is currently NO cat shelter on Santorini. (If you’re interested, you can donate to the humane sterilization of Santorini cats and help address the problem at it’s root here: http://www.santorini-cats.com/support.html )
If Fira has shops, Oia is the shopping district. If Santorini is a tourist island, Oia is where they congregate. Timothy and I travel light, both to save money not checking bags and time not having to wait for luggage. On our two weeks honeymoon we carried a backpack each and one camera bag. That did not leave an inch of room for us to take home souvenirs, which meant that all our shopping was done through windows.
Easily our favorite part of Oia was Atlantis Books. Tucked on the side of a shop lined street, you could walk up steps to a platform hosting miscellaneous bookshelves, or downstairs to an adorable shop filled to the brim with literature. We explored every corner. Not only do they have notecards recommending books with irresistible descriptions, but they have many first editions and other collectibles. I would love to go back with an empty suitcase and fill it.
One of many concrete alleys in Oia
Blue is an ongoing theme on the island
My favorite shop – Atlantis Books
One of my go-to vacation dresses from lulus.com
One of many stray cats we befriended… there is no cat shelter on Santorini
Sunset in Oia
For sunset we made our way to the Byzantine Castle Ruins, a highly praised location to watch the sunset in Oia. It was easy to see it was indeed a great spot, but it was also very crowded. People gathered hours early to claim their place along the walls. We would not have stayed there, except that we found a ledge, on a lower level, where we could climb sort of behind a big rock yet see with a perfectly clear view. It was very lucky we found it.
I was amazed at the crowds that gathered. The sunset was red, clear, and beautiful. It was painted across the sky without a cloud in sight, reflecting on the water and contrasting against the catamarans below. The windmills and whitewashed villas turned orange with the sky. I see why the sunset in Oia is famous, but to be honest I enjoyed our private screening on a rooftop in Firostefani, the night before, better.
We explored Oia all over again after dark. It seemed even more crowded as the people that had been staking out their spots for sunset were freed to wander. Eventually we drove the quad back, which was a little more intimidating than the ride there due to the darkness, curves, and terrible drivers. After parking easily behind our hotel we walked into Fira and got more chicken-on-a-stick (Greece knows how to make it) and then returned to Zafora Restaurant Café for dessert.
Walking out to then looking up at the Byzantine Castle Ruins, a popular spot to view sunset
Insane crowds assemble in Oia for sunset every night
Looking back over Oia and along the island from the ruins, before the crowd overran them
The sunset catamaran cruises dotted the water
Views from our nook on the Byzantine Castle Ruins
After people started to clear out
The view after nightfall continued to stun
Follow for blog updates – Santorini day 3 is coming soon, then it’s on to Athens!
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September 5, 2017
Getting there
The morning after our wedding (which was a fairy tale!) we left our hotel and went directly to the airport in Charlotte, North Carolina. We flew to New York City, then caught an overnight flight to Paris. After a layover we flew to Athens, then finally to Santorini. We arrived around 11pm Santorini time after almost two full days of travel. None of our flights were purchased together – we found it was much cheaper to book the flights separately. It’s almost always cheaper to book a flight to a major airport like NYC, Boston, or Atlanta and catch a redeye to Europe from there, rather than flying overseas out of a smaller international airport.
In the Paris airport we enjoyed our favorite French fare of bread and Orangina
They have a very complicated tube system to get to various levels of the Paris airport
Arrival and Accommodation
We had a pre-arranged shuttle from our hotel meet us at the Santorini airport. The shuttle picked up two additional couples, who got dropped at their hotels first. The driver was FEARLESS on the steep hairpin turns, so it was an exciting first look at the island.
We stayed at Exclusive Plan Suites, and I’m pretty sure we looked through every single hotel on the island when booking. The most famous luxury accommodation on Santorini is Grace Hotel, but we were looking for a quality place for less $$$. My one pricey criteria: a private spa with a caldera view. We continued on to Athens, Rome, Ireland and Iceland on a budget, but we wanted Santorini to be the fancy bit of our honeymoon.
When the shuttle dropped us off, we had to walk in a short distance from the road, around outlying buildings and closer to the caldera. There was a teeny tiny itty bitty room on the side of the cliff where hotel staff welcomed us. He showed us to our suite and it was magic from then out.
There were three rooms owned by our hotel together, and each had a private spa out front. Inside the floors and walls were all stone, including the large cave shower (no shower door, just a smooth stone opening) with double shower heads. They left us a bowl of fruit, decanter of white wine, and two wine glasses in addition to robes and slippers. We’d left the door open as we walked in and within moments a small gray tabby cat sauntered into the room. I adore any creature with fur, so I instantly melted. She made herself right at home, exploring the room and hopping on the bed to cuddle. I noticed her belly and teats were swollen and was quite sure she had kittens somewhere. We called her Mila, and we left the door open for her when we went to sit out on the ledge in front of our room to take in the view and sip wine. It felt unreal.
Our hotel was in Firostefani, on the edge of Fira. If we ever go back we will stay there again. Oia, the top end of the island, is more touristy and crowded. Akrotiri, on the other end, is remote from much you’ll want to see and do. The island is small and Firostefani is right in the middle. It offers gorgeous views of the islands curves to each side, and provides convenient access to everywhere on the island. If we left our room and walked right we could walk along the cliff in front of other suites. It felt semi-private, as nobody who wasn’t staying there seemed to wander in. If we walked to the left from our room we would enter Fira, first hitting restaurants and then a shopping district.
Our feline friend we called Mila
Enjoying the lights of the villas and wine out front of our room
Our room, in the center, as it appeared in daylight
Breakfast
Our first morning I threw open the shutters and was greeted with sunshine and the sparkling blue waters of the caldera. It was breathtaking. We rang the number they had given us and the woman working in the tiny office brought us a basket of assorted breads, honey, and jam. She also let us know that each day there would be sandwich meat and two juice boxes apiece left for us in the mini-fridge. The bread, meat, and juice were the same each day, but we enjoyed it all three that we were there. We ate our breakfast on the folding chairs out front of our room in pajamas.
The view through our window
Assorted breads, jam, and honey for breakfast
Afternoon in Fira
After eating we set off towards Fira and explored the shops on foot. We enjoyed the many churches and caldera views. Keep in mind that if you would like to go into the beautiful churches you are not allowed to be wearing shorts. It was quite warm, so I chose to wear shorts and peak in the doors. There were so many alleys, stairs, nooks, and gardens to explore, it filled much of the day. We ate at a surprisingly quiet restaurant with a stunning view of the cliffs and caldera. It was called the Zafora Restaurant Café and I highly recommend it. Neither of us are foodies but we loved it so much we ended up eating there again another day.
At the base of Fira is The Little Port of Santorini. It is where the cruise ships dock to let off their passengers. The passengers must then either climb up a steep set of switchback steps, pay to ride up donkeys, or pay to ride up the cable car. In the afternoon the line to go down in the cable car is quite long because so many tourists are returning to the cruise ships. We chose to walk down the steps and ride back up in the cable car. The donkeys are mercilessly abused, and I do not recommend you support that industry. It was so sad to walk past them. Walking downhill always seems easy going, but something about those steps KILLED my calves. They were sore the next few days. However, I’m glad we got to see the base and ride up the cable car. It is 6 euro a person one way, and there was no line at all to ride up in the afternoon. It moves quickly and is a short ride.
The interior of one of the many beautiful churches in Fira
The famous Three Bells of Fira, technically located in Firostefani
View as you hike through Fira
The path down to The Little Port of Santorini
Cable car up from The Little Port
September blooms
Shopping in Fira
Alleys and Nooks in Fira
Caldera views
Sunset in Firostefani
In the early evening we returned to our room and discovered Mila’s kittens! They moved around a lot so it was difficult to get a photo of them, but they were adorable! I was so happy that she had had the good sense to give birth on a ledge completely inaccessible to people. We could look down and watch them but no one would be able to disturb them. We enjoyed checking up on them and spending time with Mila throughout the trip.
Just before sunset we hiked out in the opposite direction of Fira to visit Skaros Rock. The little peninsula is where the first fortress on the island was built. If you want, you can hike all the way up the rock. It is supposed to be a lovely place to watch the sunset. We only went to the base of the rock because we decided we wanted to watch the sunset from a secluded roof we had passed on the way. We had run to make it in time!
We spent the rest of the evening wandering around Firostefani on the paths around our hotel, enjoying the weather and the beauty of the villa lights on the cliffs. We also tested out our spa and enjoyed sitting in it and sipping juice boxes immensely.
Mila’s kittens
Skaros Rock
Sunset
Follow for blog updates – Santorini days 2 & 3 are coming soon!
Bucketlists and Babies 